Grape varieties used in the cognac region

From 92 AD growing wine was forbidden in France for almost two cenuries because the Romans feared the competition with their own wines. It was Emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus who in 280 AD once again granted the right to own vineyards and make wine. It is suggested that he gave the Gouais variety to the Gauls to make a start. Information about which grape varieties were used from that time onwards is scarce and difficult to find. I prepared a table with the known grape varieties used in Charente and I consulted the following sources for this purpose:

Etienne Munier,L’Angoumois à la fin de l’ancien Regime, 1779
Ravaz, Louis and Vivier, M. A.; Le Pays du Cognac, 1900
Delamain, R.; Histoire du cognac, 1935
Layton, T.A.; Cognac and other brandies, 1968
Sepulchre, Bruno; Le livre du cognac : trois siècles d’histoire, 1983
Conal, Gregory; Cognac, 1997
Faith, Nicholas; Cognac, 2004
Bourrouilh, R., Broquedis, M., Darne, G.; Wines of Bordeaux and Cognac: Geology of the Vineyards, 2004
abcduvin.com (online website)
vivc.de (online website)

To put things in perspective: distillation began around 1500 in the region and the product was known as eau-de-vie. Double distillation only started around 1600 and the first evidence that the product was called cognac dates back to 1617.

Note 1: Some synonyms in the table are used more than once for several different cepages.
Note 2: The table does not contain all grape varieties that are in use today for making wine or pineau.

Name used in Charentevariety number and prime nameperiod (roughly)commentsimportant synonyms
Chauché (gris)14165; Trousseau gris11th c. - 1709
today the Chauché grise is again in use for white wine
Used for wine; didn't survive severe winter of 1709; replaced by Folle blancheGray Riesling
Chemère11th c. - 1709
Used for wine; didn't survive severe winter of 1709; replaced by Folle blanche; not known anymore today
Gouais blanc5374; Heunich weissmedieval timesUsed for wine. It is suggested this variety was given by Marcus Aurelius Probus to the Gauls (ca. 280 ad). Ancestor of Colombard, Balzac blanc and Meslier Saint François.Gros blanc; Bouilleaud; Bouillau; Guinlan
Chenin blanc2527; Chenin blancmedieval timesUsed for wine. It is the ancestor of Colomard, Balzac blanc and Meslier Saint François.Anjou, Blanc d'Anjou, Gamay blanc
Colombard 2771; Colombard10th century till now
Until 1600 used for wine, thereafter also for cognac. Hybrid of Gouais blanc and Chenin blanc. From 1600-1880 widely used for cognac, today rarely usedColombier; Queu tendre; Blanquette
Folle blanche (white mad lady)4183 (Folle blanche10th century till now
Until 1600 used for wine, thereafter also for cognac. It survived the severe winter of 1709 and replaced Chauché and Chemère and later also Balzac, Most widely used cepage from 1800-1870s, thereafter almost nonePicpoule; Engreat blanc; Grais; Gros plant; Plant de madame; Chalosse blanche
Daune (verte)11480; Semillonsee SémillonSémillon; Sémillon blanc; Dausne; Blanc doux
Sauvignon 10790; Sauvignon blancallowed until 1955probably only for wine
Gaumez1500 - 1709In use for making cognac before Balzac; didn't survive severe winter of 1709; mentioned by Delamain, but couldn't find any record of it.
Balzac (Balzac blanc)947; Balzac blanc1600 - 1800hybrid of Gouais blanc and Chenin blanc;. From 1709-1800 most widely used for cognacBalzat; Blanc Limousin
Ugni blanc12628; Trebbiano ToscanoLate 1870s till nowreplaced the Folle blancheSt. Emilion; Trebbiano; Buan et Beou; Bobebon; Chatar, Cadillac
Montils7956; Montilsstill useddescendant of Gouais blanc; survived PhylloxeraChalosse; Blanc de montils; Aucarot; Folle Blanche de Loire Atlantique; Folle blanche de Loire Inferieure
Meslier Saint François7677; Meslier Saint Françoisallowed until 2020hybrid of Gouais blanc and Chenin blancBlanc ramé; Anereau; Chalosse
Jurançon blanc5861; Jurançon blancallowed until 2020Braquet blanc; Notre dame; Quillat
Sélect blanc16868; Selectallowed until 2020hybrid of Ugni blanc with Jurançon
Sémillon blanc11480; Semillonstill usedSémillon; Sémillon blanc; Daune verte; Dausne; Blanc doux
Folignan17815; Folignanallowed from 2005hybrid of Ugni blanc with Folle blanche
Gros blanc (syn. for Gouais blanc)5374; Heunich weisssee Gouais blanc (mentioned by Ravaz)
Bouilleaud (syn. for Gouais)5374; Heunich weisssee Gouais blanc (mentioned by Ravaz)
Saint Pierre14834; Colombaudmentioned by RavazColombeau; Blanquette; Psalmodi blanc
Saint Rabier (red)7650; Merillementioned by RavazGros noir; Mérille
Balzac noir (red)7915; Monastrellmentioned by RavazMonastel; Mourvèdre
Petit noir (red)5862; Jurançon noirmentioned by RavazDégouttant; Jurançon noir

 

 


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